Hello from Cuba (12) - Contrasts and Contradictions

I really gotta hurry, I only have about 28 minutes leftshadowy trees and benches. And almost all the
on my Internet card so I am going to try to be briefbenches are missing their wooden slats, on the seat,
here.the backrest or both. And these benches are located
The last few days have been extremely interesting. Iright outside Cuba´s most famous building!
am not a political expert, but in a city like Havana youToday I received the explanation that quality wood is
can´t help but be confronted with politics.extremely difficult to get and that people simply help
Everywhere you see billboards with political slogans,themselves.....
monuments of heroes that were significant inThe number and types of private entrepreneurial
Cuba´s history, pictures of Che Guevara andschemes is too large to mention. Only a few are
Fidel Castro, and the Cuban Revolution as well as thelegal, for example the paladares (private restaurants
present economic circumstances are omnipresentin private homes), the casas particulares (bed and
topics of conversation.breakfasts) as well as various types of private taxis.
I have read a lot about Cuba and tried to talk to asBut apart from this small number of officially
many people as possible and there are a few thingspermitted private enterprises, virtually everybody in
that have crystallized in my mind as generalthis country has turned into an entrepreneur. Any
impressions of Cuba. Once again, these are myperson that owns a car, and car ownership is
personal impressions and they are definitely notextremely restricted here, uses it to give a lift to
based on scientific fact, but nevertheless I will sharepeople, picks up passengers at a street corner and
them with you.drops them off 20 minutes later in return for 10
Cubans are a fiercely proud and independent peoplePesos, all money made under the table.
and more than anything they insist on preservingAll these things are strangely ironic to me, since Cuba
their national independence and sovereignty. Atofficially is a Communist country, where private
various times throughout history Cuba wasproperty and private enterprise is all but forbidden,
dominated by the Spanish, the English or thebut in order to survive the entire population has
Americans and since the Cuban Revolution in 1959turned into an army of entrepreneurs.
Cubans have had self-determination for the first timeOn the other hand, Cuba has achieved tremendous
in history. Obviously, Cubans avowed political enemyaccomplishments, for a small, third-world Carribean
is the US goverment, but I have heard numerouscountry. Close to 100% of Cuba´s population is
people say that they have nothing against theliterate, public education is available to everybody.
American people, their issues are with the USBlack people and women in particular have benefited
government, and in particular the embargo and thefrom the effects of the revoluation. The health care
travel restrictions for Cubans living in the US.and education system are among the most
Apparently, relatives of Cuban families are now onlydeveloped systems in the 3rd world, and Cuba´s
allowed to travel to Cuba once every 3 years, so thelife expectancy and infant mortality rates are among
policites were tightened significantly by the USthe best of the world. In addition, post-revolutionary
government in recent times.Cuba has also dedicated itself to promoting sport and
The results of the embargo and the economicathelticism and today Cuba excels in many different
shortages are visible everywhere, buildings aresports (track and field, baseball, basketball, volleyball,
crumbling, there is not enough construction material,fencing and others) on an international level.
hospitals are lacking in equipment, and personalSo all in all, the Cuban Revolution has had some
income is extremely low (eg. between $ 8 and $20 aastoundingly positive effects on the country, despite
month...). As a result, everybody is forced to open aall the hardships that people still experience. However,
little side business. During the last few days I haveit seems that there is a little bit of optimism in the air,
heard that it is extremely common in Cuba to stealsince Cuba signed trade agreements with Venezuela,
resources from the State since all economic activityvarious other Latin American countries and China. And
including retail is nationalized.of course great hope is placed in Cuba´s tourism
People steal cosmetics, hygience products, cement,industry.
wood, computers, cigars, everything that is notHowever, on the other hand, you have to keep in
absolutely nailed down. Then they sell the productsmind that Cuba is still a dictatorship, a totalitarian
privately under the table. It is strangely ironic that in aregime and human rights and personal freedoms are
Communist country, everybody has turned into anrestricted here. There is a palpable paranoia here
entrepreneur... The phrase that I have heard isamong people in that they are afraid of publicly
¨hay que inventar¨, you have to inventcriticizing the regime. And organizations like the CDR,
things - be creative in order to survive.the Comite de la Defensa de la Revolution, often act
This mentality manifests itself in some very obviousas watchdogs and informers on the people. Travel is
ways: yesterday Pedro and I tried to get into theextremely restricted, or impossible, and there are no
Partagas Tobacco Factory since I wanted to go on aofficial methods of criticizing the government.
tour. The security guard told us that an employeeThis short little bit of time has been great in giving
had died and that therefore the factory was closed.me an insight into Cuban culture, politics and
Then, under his breath, he asked us if we wanted toeconomics, and my classes at the university are
buy a box of cigars. How amazing: the security guardgreat since my colleagues also add to a very
protecting the tobacco factory is selling (stolen)interesting discussion. We discuss and compare the
cigars on the black market.Scandinavian, Cuban and Canadian health systems,
Also, just outside the Capitol building, Havana´spolitical systems, mass media and economic policies
most astounding and most well-known architecturaland all this has truly been an eye-opening experience.
jewel, there is a beautiful park with tropical flowers,