Hello from Cuba (13) - Exploring Downtown Havana

The last few days I have spent quite a bit of timesport. 2 days ago was the final of the playoffs
walking around downtown Havana - or Habana Vieja,between Havana Campo (if I am correct) and
as they say around here. It is an extremelySantiago de Cuba, the second most important city in
fascinating place and one of the most architecturallythe country. Obviously a huge deal in this country,
consistent colonial city centres in the world.and Havana ended up losing 2 to 1, but despite the
A few days ago, my local friend Pedro and I went toloss a great opportunity for the locals to party.
explore the Capitolio, which is a beautiful building,Walking down the famous pedestrian street Calle
ironically very reminiscent of the Capitol inObispo, which has numerous expensive stores for
Washington. Built between 1926 and 1929 as thetourists, you approach the really old historic part of
former seat of the Cuban government, itsHabana Vieja, places such as the Plaza de la Catedral
neoclassical exterior is complemented by an(where there was a mass for Pope John Paul II
absolutely astounding Roman interior with all sorts ofabout a week ago), Plaza Vieja and, my favourite
meetings rooms, a library, a souvenir shop and anplace: Plaza de Armas. This square dates back to the
Internet cafe. In the front entrance hall there is aearly 1500s, and houses the centuries old former city
huge statue that greets you upon entering, truly anadministration office as well as several other Spanish
astounding building.colonial buildings that surround a beautiful park with a
The park outside the Capitolio is one of my favouritestatue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, the founder of
places, despite the missing seats and backrests ofthe Cuban homeland.
the benches. Yesterday I also had a chance to visitYesterday I also had a chance to explore a market
the Partagas Tobacco Company, a cigar factory inthat is put up every Wednesday to Saturday just
existence since 1845. I took the $10 tour and weoff the Malecon, near the Plaza de Armas, where
saw the tobacco rolling school where students learnthey sell all sorts of trinkets and merchandise for
cigar production for 90 days. Later we movedtourists. I had a chance to pick up a few little
upstairs to the area where the real cigars are made.souvenirs for my husband and my colleagues and
Workers have quotas of between 80 and 200 cigarsthen sat down at a little outdoor cafe where there
a day (some of which miraculously find their way intowas a young Cuban band playing traditional
the black market...) and the workers sit at oldold-fashioned Cuban music. The really interesting thing
wooden work stations and manually roll the tobacco,was an organ that they were playing that must date
while at other work stations the exterior leaf andback to the 1920s, accompanied by all sorts of
later the label and the boxes are added. I reallyCuban percussion. I really love Cuban music, but I
wanted to see a tobacco factory since tobacco stillhaven't yet had a chance to listen to it a lot. My
remains a key industry in Cuba to this day.friend and I wanted to go and visit the "Casa de la
Due to its architectural beauty, and not surprisingly,Musica" yesterday where they play live music at a
Havana has been declared a Human Heritage Site byreasonable price, but for some reason it was closed,
the UNESCO and it is definitely one of the mostsomething not unusual around here.
beautiful cities I have ever visited, despite theI also had a chance to walk down to "Prado", a long
physical decay that is visible in so many parts of theavenue with a pedestrian walkway with trees on
city.both sides, and two lines of traffic on both sides of
Along these lines, I had a chance to see residentialthe pedestrian area, somewhat reminiscent of the
areas in Habana Vieja, where people live in extremelyRamblas in Barcelona. Very close to the Prado is the
cramped conditions in crumbling houses, with theMuseo de la Revolucion which used to be the palace
occasional house that has already collapsed inof the last Cuban dictator, Fulgencio Batista, prior to
between others. Everybody's life unfolds in thethe Revolution. Fidel Castro's yacht, the
street, you see children, couples, old people, dogs"Granma"which he used to cross over from Mexico
and cats at all hours of the day, people generally justwith his rebellious companions, is displayed in a
sit around and chat, and the children play streetglass-encased building just behind the palace-like
versions of "la pelota", which is baseball, the nationalMuseo de la Revolucion, and surrounded by various
sport. This street life is something truly differenttanks and military vehicles dating back to
from a nordic city like Toronto where there are onlyrevolutionary combat. The Revolution is definitely
a few areas where there is significant pedestrianpresent whereever you go.
traffic. And people generally don't sit around in frontI think I have seen most of the important sights of
of their houses or apartments to chat in the m iddlethe city, excluding the Plaza de la Revolucion, which
of the night.houses the Comite Central and the political apparatus
I also had a chance to see Havana's train station, ofof the Cuban government. I still have to make a little
course absolutely packed with people, the port areaexcursion to that area and also take a photo or two
and some rather derelict industrial areas withof the memorial of Che Guevara, who still appears to
crumbling buildings. The lack of money is apparentbe a very revered individual around here, often
everywhere.admittedly more so than Fidel Castro.
On the other hand I have also had a chance to2 weeks is a pretty long time to spend in a city and
sample some of the beauty that this city has todue to the fact that I have completely immersed
offer. I have travelled a fair bit, particularly to historicmyself in the culture, I think I have a pretty good
southern places in Europe such as Paris, Milan, Madrid,feel for La Habana and I am slowly but surely
Barcelona, etc. But in my opinion Havana is in amentally getting ready to go home. It's been great,
category by itself. The colonial architecturebut I am also happy to get back home to see my
downtown is so consistent, with almost no newhusband, my friends, to have my normal life back.
buildings interrupting the visual impression.There are only 2 and a half days left now for my
Beside the Capitolio is the Teatro Nacional, which isCuban experiment and there are a few more places
just next to the famous Hotel Inglaterra and in frontto see, but I am also looking forward to coming back
is the Parque Central, where men of all ages gethome to Toronto.
together to discuss news related to their national