Hello from Cuba (9) - Havana Neighbourhoods

Yesterday morning I had arranged to meet one ofmesa" - under the table. This is one of the things in
the women from the from the university, a very niceCuba, many things are forbidden, but there is usually
lady in her late 50s, who agreed to show me arounda way of working around it.
the Vedado area and take me through some localI was also taken to a special market hall where locals
markets.buy food at certain allocated times on their ration
Vedado is a beautiful residential neighbourhood withcard. Food is still scarce in Cuba and every person
many mansions and villas dating back maybe 80 toreceives a "libreta"which allocates a certain quota of
100 years or so. Before the revolution it was thebasic foods such as butter, eggs, cooking oil, flower
neighbourhood where all the doctors, lawyers andetc at very low prices. I was told that the monthly
business people lived, most of whom emigratedration is 8 eggs per person and that if you want an
around the time of the Revolution. (Business peopleextra carton of 30 eggs, they cost about $2 (CUC)
and professionals were expropriated as part of the(about Can$2.50), which is equivalent to about 1/10
Communist reorganization after the Revolution, as aof a person's monthly salary. No wonder everybody
result hundreds of thousands emigrated to the US,tries to set up a little side business to obtain extra
where there are substantial counter-revolutionary andmoney, since survival in itself takes a lot of energy.
Anti-Castro sentiments. The emigration of thousandsWe also saw a local neighbourhood repair place,
of professionals in the early 60s apparently caused awhere they repair shoes with sowing machines that
real braindrain in the country).look like they are 100 years old. This is definitely a
We walked through the neighbourhood and visitedsociety where things are reused, mended, fixed and
local markets where they sell fruits, vegetables andrecycled time and time again, and it's actually very
meat. We saw local vegetables like yucca, malanga,refreshing to see a different way of living that
boniato as well as fruits such as frutabombacontrasts so strongly with our modern way of living
(papaya), pineapple, mamey, mangos and others.where we buy stuff we don't need, just to throw it
Most of the meat that they sell in the markets isout later. Of course, the recycling here is due to
pork, and there is no refrigeration at all in thenecessity, but it does feel like there is a great
markets, although the meat is inspected by theappreciation for life here, not just consumer goods,
government. It is forbidden to sell beef because beefdespite all the difficulties.
officially is only to be used for milk production. EquallyThis 2-hour walk was a great way of getting to
forbidden in local markets is seafood like lobstersknow a little bit about the authentic Cuban lifestyle
since it is destined for big hotels and exports only,and some of the practical ways that Cubans try to
but we were approached by a couple of people whomake do in their daily lives.
were selling both lobster and beef "debajo de la