Hello From Cuba - Part 1 - First Impressions

Tuesday, April 5, 2005, 6:00 pm, Hotel Havana Libregracious in taking me around and explaining things to
Thanks to a severe case of the Revenge ofme.
Montezuma (or Ricky Ricardo?..,) I am sitting here inAfter I dropped off my suitcase and refreshed
the Hotel Havana Libre and I finally get around tomyself a little, we hopped into a private individual's
create updates from my first 4.5 days here in Cuba.car (a practice extremely common in Cuba), he paid a
The Internet connection is definitely the slowest Ifew local pesos and we were whisked downtown in
have ever seen in my entire life, (15 minutes toa very old beat-up Lada which ended up picking up
access my messages at Yahoo..), but I am giving it avarious other locals along the way.
shot anyways.Habana Vieja is a fascinating colonial city and the age
Friday morning I arrived at the airport in Toronto atand beauty of the building is astounding. Of course I
5:30 am since my husband gave me a ride beforesaw the Capitolio (very similar to the Capital in
work. The plane was scheduled to leave at 10:30 andWashington), several of the big museums, the Hotel
several transfers with public transport would haveInglaterra and some of the bars that Hemingway
taken me 2.5 hours anyway, so I decided to headfrequented.
there early and read a book.I also saw the big spider exhibit of 2 metallic spiders
Air Canada was delayed after all (due to a problemthat are located right in the heart of downtown, an
with the water supply on the plane) and we had toexhibit by a French sculptress that will stay in Havana
wait for a substitute plane from Winnipeg and finallyuntil April 28 and then apparently move on to New
got off the ground at about noon. 3.5 hours later weYork.
arrived at the airport Jose Marti in Havana - aWe walked around and chatted about life in Cuba
reasonably modern airport. However, it took me andand I started to learn a few things, about some of
the other travellers almost 2 hours to collect ourthe practical consequences of the revolution (e.g.
luggage and finally hop into a taxi.blacks have it much better today than before, and
On the way in from the airport I noticed that therethere is relatively little racism according to Pedro), and
was a mixture of industrial developments andthe double economy, where locals receive their salary
agricultural areas, right up until the centre of the city,in Pesos Cubanos, (around US$8 to $30 a month),
which is strange compared to Toronto, where therewhich is not even close to enough for living, so
is no significant agriculture until way outside the city.everybody participates in the underground economy
The older gentleman driving the taxi was veryin some way.
friendly and explained a few basic things to me, e.g.We had a reasonably expensive meal in a downtown
that most of the area is industrial and agricultural. He"Paladar", a private restaurant in a private home with
also showed the National Sports Centre to me. Ofa maximum of 12 seats, one of the few official
course you see old cars from the 50s and earlier asprivate enterprises allowed. When asked about the
well as beat-up Russian Ladas everywhere. Oldfuture of Cuba after Fidel, both my new-found friend
sidecar motorcycles are also a popular way to getand the old man running the Paladar indicated that
around.they thought not much would change after a future
I finally arrived at my hotel at about 6 pm where mypassing of Fidel. (Actually the mention of Fidel´s
brand-new friend Pedro (a connection through apassing often makes people pull up their hands in
friend in Canada) was waiting for me. I had told myfront of their mouths and start to speak very
friend that I wanted to really spend some time withquietly...).
locals to learn about Cuba, its customs, its way of lifeAfter the meal, Pedro again flagged down a private
etc.vehicle, we hopped in and I got dropped off at the
Pedro is a brown-skinned black man in his late thirtieshotel, dropping into bed like a tired sack of potatoes.
with a common-law wife and a young daughter. AnBut I definitely had a great introduction to life in Cuba
extremely nice person and he´s been veryon my first evening....