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Hello from Cuba (12) - Contrasts and Contradictions

Wednesday,  April  13,  2005Also, just outside the Capitol building,
Havana´s most astounding and most
Hello from Cuba (12) - Contrasts andwell-known architectural jewel, there is a
Contradictionsbeautiful park with tropical flowers, shadowy
trees and benches. And almost all the benches
Etecsa Telecommunications Building, Downtownare missing their wooden slats, on the seat,
Havana,the backrest or both. And these benches are
located right outside Cuba´s most famous
Thursday,  April  13,  2005,  3:32  pmbuilding! Today I received the explanation
that quality wood is extremely difficult to
I really gotta hurry, I only have about 28get and that people simply help
minutes left on my Internet card so I amthemselves.....
going  to  try  to  be  brief  here.
The number and types of private
The last few days have been extremelyentrepreneurial schemes is too large to
interesting. I am not a political expert, butmention. Only a few are legal, for example
in a city like Havana you can´t help butthe paladares (private restaurants in private
be confronted with politics. Everywhere youhomes), the casas particulares (bed and
see billboards with political slogans,breakfasts) as well as various types of
monuments of heroes that were significant inprivate taxis. But apart from this small
Cuba´s history, pictures of Che Guevaranumber of officially permitted private
and Fidel Castro, and the Cuban Revolution asenterprises, virtually everybody in this
well as the present economic circumstancescountry has turned into an entrepreneur. Any
are  omnipresent  topics  of  conversation.person that owns a car, and car ownership is
extremely restricted here, uses it to give a
I have read a lot about Cuba and tried tolift to people, picks up passengers at a
talk to as many people as possible and therestreet corner and drops them off 20 minutes
are a few things that have crystallized in mylater in return for 10 Pesos, all money made
mind as general impressions of Cuba. Onceunder  the  table.
again, these are my personal impressions and
they are definitely not based on scientificAll these things are strangely ironic to me,
fact, but nevertheless I will share them withsince Cuba officially is a Communist country,
you.where private property and private enterprise
is all but forbidden, but in order to survive
Cubans are a fiercely proud and independentthe entire population has turned into an army
people and more than anything they insist onof  entrepreneurs.
preserving their national independence and
sovereignty. At various times throughoutOn the other hand, Cuba has achieved
history Cuba was dominated by the Spanish,tremendous accomplishments, for a small,
the English or the Americans and since thethird-world Carribean country. Close to 100%
Cuban Revolution in 1959 Cubans have hadof Cuba´s population is literate, public
self-determination for the first time ineducation is available to everybody. Black
history. Obviously, Cubans avowed politicalpeople and women in particular have benefited
enemy is the US goverment, but I have heardfrom the effects of the revoluation. The
numerous people say that they have nothinghealth care and education system are among
against the American people, their issues arethe most developed systems in the 3rd world,
with the US government, and in particular theand Cuba´s life expectancy and infant
embargo and the travel restrictions formortality rates are among the best of the
Cubans living in the US. Apparently,world. In addition, post-revolutionary Cuba
relatives of Cuban families are now onlyhas also dedicated itself to promoting sport
allowed to travel to Cuba once every 3 years,and athelticism and today Cuba excels in many
so the policites were tightened significantlydifferent sports (track and field, baseball,
by  the  US  government  in  recent  times.basketball, volleyball, fencing and others)
on  an  international  level.
The results of the embargo and the economic
shortages are visible everywhere, buildingsSo all in all, the Cuban Revolution has had
are crumbling, there is not enoughsome astoundingly positive effects on the
construction material, hospitals are lackingcountry, despite all the hardships that
in equipment, and personal income ispeople still experience. However, it seems
extremely low (eg. between $ 8 and $20 athat there is a little bit of optimism in the
month...). As a result, everybody is forcedair, since Cuba signed trade agreements with
to open a little side business. During theVenezuela, various other Latin American
last few days I have heard that it iscountries and China. And of course great hope
extremely common in Cuba to steal resourcesis  placed  in  Cuba´s  tourism  industry.
from the State since all economic activity
including  retail  is  nationalized.However, on the other hand, you have to keep
in mind that Cuba is still a dictatorship, a
People steal cosmetics, hygience products,totalitarian regime and human rights and
cement, wood, computers, cigars, everythingpersonal freedoms are restricted here. There
that is not absolutely nailed down. Then theyis a palpable paranoia here among people in
sell the products privately under the table.that they are afraid of publicly criticizing
It is strangely ironic that in a Communistthe regime. And organizations like the CDR,
country, everybody has turned into anthe Comite de la Defensa de la Revolution,
entrepreneur... The phrase that I have heardoften act as watchdogs and informers on the
is ¨hay que inventar¨, you have topeople. Travel is extremely restricted, or
invent things - be creative in order toimpossible, and there are no official methods
survive.of  criticizing  the  government.
This mentality manifests itself in some veryThis short little bit of time has been great
obvious ways: yesterday Pedro and I tried toin giving me an insight into Cuban culture,
get into the Partagas Tobacco Factory since Ipolitics and economics, and my classes at the
wanted to go on a tour. The security guarduniversity are great since my colleagues also
told us that an employee had died and thatadd to a very interesting discussion. We
therefore the factory was closed. Then, underdiscuss and compare the Scandinavian, Cuban
his breath, he asked us if we wanted to buy aand Canadian health systems, political
box of cigars. How amazing: the securitysystems, mass media and economic policies and
guard protecting the tobacco factory isall this has truly been an eye-opening
selling  (stolen) cigars on the black market.experience.



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