Hello from Cuba (12) - Contrasts and Contradictions

Wednesday, April 13, 2005Also, just outside the Capitol building, Havana´s
Hello from Cuba (12) - Contrasts and Contradictionsmost astounding and most well-known architectural
Etecsa Telecommunications Building, Downtownjewel, there is a beautiful park with tropical flowers,
Havana,shadowy trees and benches. And almost all the
Thursday, April 13, 2005, 3:32 pmbenches are missing their wooden slats, on the seat,
I really gotta hurry, I only have about 28 minutes leftthe backrest or both. And these benches are located
on my Internet card so I am going to try to be briefright outside Cuba´s most famous building!
here.Today I received the explanation that quality wood is
The last few days have been extremely interesting. Iextremely difficult to get and that people simply help
am not a political expert, but in a city like Havana youthemselves.....
can´t help but be confronted with politics.The number and types of private entrepreneurial
Everywhere you see billboards with political slogans,schemes is too large to mention. Only a few are
monuments of heroes that were significant inlegal, for example the paladares (private restaurants
Cuba´s history, pictures of Che Guevara andin private homes), the casas particulares (bed and
Fidel Castro, and the Cuban Revolution as well as thebreakfasts) as well as various types of private taxis.
present economic circumstances are omnipresentBut apart from this small number of officially
topics of conversation.permitted private enterprises, virtually everybody in
I have read a lot about Cuba and tried to talk to asthis country has turned into an entrepreneur. Any
many people as possible and there are a few thingsperson that owns a car, and car ownership is
that have crystallized in my mind as generalextremely restricted here, uses it to give a lift to
impressions of Cuba. Once again, these are mypeople, picks up passengers at a street corner and
personal impressions and they are definitely notdrops them off 20 minutes later in return for 10
based on scientific fact, but nevertheless I will sharePesos, all money made under the table.
them with you.All these things are strangely ironic to me, since Cuba
Cubans are a fiercely proud and independent peopleofficially is a Communist country, where private
and more than anything they insist on preservingproperty and private enterprise is all but forbidden,
their national independence and sovereignty. Atbut in order to survive the entire population has
various times throughout history Cuba wasturned into an army of entrepreneurs.
dominated by the Spanish, the English or theOn the other hand, Cuba has achieved tremendous
Americans and since the Cuban Revolution in 1959accomplishments, for a small, third-world Carribean
Cubans have had self-determination for the first timecountry. Close to 100% of Cuba´s population is
in history. Obviously, Cubans avowed political enemyliterate, public education is available to everybody.
is the US goverment, but I have heard numerousBlack people and women in particular have benefited
people say that they have nothing against thefrom the effects of the revoluation. The health care
American people, their issues are with the USand education system are among the most
government, and in particular the embargo and thedeveloped systems in the 3rd world, and Cuba´s
travel restrictions for Cubans living in the US.life expectancy and infant mortality rates are among
Apparently, relatives of Cuban families are now onlythe best of the world. In addition, post-revolutionary
allowed to travel to Cuba once every 3 years, so theCuba has also dedicated itself to promoting sport and
policites were tightened significantly by the USathelticism and today Cuba excels in many different
government in recent times.sports (track and field, baseball, basketball, volleyball,
The results of the embargo and the economicfencing and others) on an international level.
shortages are visible everywhere, buildings areSo all in all, the Cuban Revolution has had some
crumbling, there is not enough construction material,astoundingly positive effects on the country, despite
hospitals are lacking in equipment, and personalall the hardships that people still experience. However,
income is extremely low (eg. between $ 8 and $20 ait seems that there is a little bit of optimism in the air,
month...). As a result, everybody is forced to open asince Cuba signed trade agreements with Venezuela,
little side business. During the last few days I havevarious other Latin American countries and China. And
heard that it is extremely common in Cuba to stealof course great hope is placed in Cuba´s tourism
resources from the State since all economic activityindustry.
including retail is nationalized.However, on the other hand, you have to keep in
People steal cosmetics, hygience products, cement,mind that Cuba is still a dictatorship, a totalitarian
wood, computers, cigars, everything that is notregime and human rights and personal freedoms are
absolutely nailed down. Then they sell the productsrestricted here. There is a palpable paranoia here
privately under the table. It is strangely ironic that in aamong people in that they are afraid of publicly
Communist country, everybody has turned into ancriticizing the regime. And organizations like the CDR,
entrepreneur... The phrase that I have heard isthe Comite de la Defensa de la Revolution, often act
¨hay que inventar¨, you have to inventas watchdogs and informers on the people. Travel is
things - be creative in order to survive.extremely restricted, or impossible, and there are no
This mentality manifests itself in some very obviousofficial methods of criticizing the government.
ways: yesterday Pedro and I tried to get into theThis short little bit of time has been great in giving
Partagas Tobacco Factory since I wanted to go on ame an insight into Cuban culture, politics and
tour. The security guard told us that an employeeeconomics, and my classes at the university are
had died and that therefore the factory was closed.great since my colleagues also add to a very
Then, under his breath, he asked us if we wanted tointeresting discussion. We discuss and compare the
buy a box of cigars. How amazing: the security guardScandinavian, Cuban and Canadian health systems,
protecting the tobacco factory is selling (stolen)political systems, mass media and economic policies
cigars on the black market.and all this has truly been an eye-opening experience.